New COSMOS standards announced

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The Soil Association (SA) has announced that following research into the sourcing of palm oil and palm kernel oil for use in beauty products, COSMOS has set new guidelines for the natural cosmetics industry.

While COSMOS would prefer all ingredients from palm and palm derivatives to be sourced organically, this is currently not possible due to availability, and so it is hoped the new standards will ensure that the industry takes more responsibility when sourcing these ingredients, minimizing the environmental impact of deforestation.

The revisions to the current guidelines will take effect on 1 January 2019, when it will become mandatory for all licensees to adhere to new requirements. All new COSMOS certified products will need to be formulated using ingredients and raw materials from an approved list of certified sustainable palm oil (CSPO) using the following mass balance supply chain model:

  • Palm oil (Note, must be organic for COSMOS Organic products, must be CSPO for COSMOS Natural)
  • Palm kernel oil
  • Glycerin
  • CAPB and coco betaine
  • Fatty acids: stearic acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, lauric acid
  • Fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol
  • Esters made from fatty acids or fatty alcohols: cetyl palmitate, cetyl phosphate, myristyl myristate, glyceryl (mono-) stearate and glyceryl oleate
  • Triglycerides: C8-C10 caprylic/capric triglyceride and C10-C18 triglycerides

In addition to the above list, COSMOS will add lauric acid and lauryl alcohol.

For brands whose certified products contain only CSPO raw materials and ingredients, the SA says a declaration of this would make a ‘good claim’ on packaging.

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